So I sped days scrubbing off dried grout. I wanted things to roll smoothly so I made sure to get the grout lines as close to level with the top of the tiles as possible. With tile you clean tile like any other hard floor in your house, so it's not maintenance free. With a bare concrete floor you might sweep it and that's about it. It will never stain, looks great, tough, but requires cleaning. I wanted to save money but in the end it was $1800 + a tile saw and so I didn't save any money compared to having someone come out and epoxy it. It simply took way too long if you are any type of a perfectionist to tile 400 sq feet. Looks like Home Depot carries this which has a steeper slope, but might be perfect for me. What grout color would everyone advise? The tiles are light grey and I was thinking a similar color grout to help it all blend together.ĭoes anyone know of a local store that carries reno ramp, or should I just buy online? Is there something better? My door is 12' wide and it looks like it only comes in 8' sections so I will end up with a seam. How hard is it to work with? Would this be a good choice: What grout? From what I have read epoxy grout is where it is at. What thinset? From what I have read I want latex modified. I am still amazed with the vast majority of the installs being DIY and often first timers that no one on has ever posted a single problem. I had people tell me a bunch of reasons you cant use VCT in an unheated area, but I trusted what I read here and it has not had a single issue. The only downside is that it gets VERY slippery when there is melted snow on it, but that might be due to the 7 coats of polish. I did VCT in my storage barn and am very pleased with it. People reccomend a latex additive in the thinset, but even jobs where people did not use the additive do not have later posts of problems. OriginalWhitey - It has been discussed and I can not find one post of a tile actually popping. I think tile is it, but am looking for someone to tell me if I am missing something. I am looking for a floor that will stay nice for a LONG time. Are negative experiences "moderated" out of the forum, or are there really none? I have found pictures and videos of amazing things like jackstands and sledgehammers that do no damage to the tile. Not a single picture of a cracked tile from use or one that popped up, etc. The thing about tile is I can not find one post with a single bad experience. The incremental cost for tile is not much at all, so if it is as good as everything I have read it is a no brainer for me. I know too many people with professional epoxy that did not meet my expectations. I really don't love Epoxy because it is expensive and although way better than regular paint, far from bulletproof. My wife is encouraging me to do it right prior to moving the tools. It patches very nicely, but I don't want to keep touching it up the rest of my life. The kicker was when I lifted a few small patches from under the tires of a car I left parked overnight in the shop. Paint is OK, but I have already touched up a few areas that I scratched when putting in the lift, or when I drug a jackstand across it. If I hated it, I would just grind it anyway. the floor was oil stained and bare when I bought the place so I figured I would have to grind to do epoxy, why not try simple paint. Market Research for Exporting to the U.S.Dakota00 - The oil based paint is fine, but I am fussy.Litigation and Insurance Claims Investigation Services.It is possible to apply an modified cementitious epoxy adhesive to the existing epoxy floor and then apply a cementitious self-leveling or trowelable underlayment on top of it, and then bond the tile to it with a normal modified thin-set mortar. Follow epoxy adhesive manufacturer's instructions. Each of the major manufacturer's of installation products sell epoxy adhesives (go to our website at and look under Resources in Expert Answers and go to Installation Products) The epoxy floor has to be prepared by cleaning it and possibly needing to scarify it in order to get a good attachment. So an appropriate epoxy adhesive must be used, which is more expensive. The floor must be flat or sloped for the intended use or any inconsistencies will be telegraphed through the tile. The epoxy coating has to be tenaciously attached to the substrate because if it debones so does the tile. The substrate must be suitable and sound for the application. ANSWER ANSWER - In theory a ceramic or stone tile could be installed over an epoxy floor, but it could be problematic depending on the conditions.
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